Parhaat Breaking Bet Podcastit (2024)

1
BetterCallSaulBeforeBreakingBads01e01 16:36

2M ago16:36

16:36

The Premiere episode of Better Call Saul Before Breaking Bad!Kirjoittanut Kent Masloskie

1
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents 8:11

8M ago8:11

8:11

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season O…

1
Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project? 31:09

2y ago31:09

31:09

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in: Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance Authored by Krzysztof Sas-Nowosielski, Judyta Wyciślik, and Piotr Kaczka; published in the International Journal of Environmental Resea…

1
Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing? 52:31

2y ago52:31

52:31

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews: Current Approaches on Warming up for Sports Performance: A Critical Review Authored by Maria Helena Gil MD, Henrique P. Neiva PhD, António C. Sousa MD, Mário C. Marques PhD, an…

1
Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths? 50:20

2y ago50:20

50:20

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple papers including: Use of ‘chalk’ in rock climbing: sine qua non or myth? Authored by François-Xavier Li, S. Margetts and I. Fowler; published in the …

1
What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers? 52:46

2y ago52:46

52:46

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers Authored by David Giles, Kimberly Barnes, Nicola Taylor, Corinna Ch…

1
Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing? 56:07

2y ago56:07

56:07

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skilled Motor Action Authored by Rob Gray; published in Current Directions in Psychological Science in June, 2011. They’ll discuss the difference between …

1
Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size? 52:55

2y ago52:55

52:55

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gray; published in the International Review of Sport and Exercise Psychology in December, 2013. They’ll explain the idea of embodied perception in sport …

1
Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing? 53:16

2y ago53:16

53:16

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport Performance Authored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert Rokowski, Zbign…

1
Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers? 44:18

2y ago44:18

44:18

In this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published …

1
Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers? 38:06

2y ago38:06

38:06

In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial Authored by Serhii Kozin, Marian Cretu, Zhanneta Kozina, Andrii Ch…

1
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best? 49:58

2y ago49:58

49:58

In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers: The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength Authored by Dave Giles, Oliver Torr, Thomas Randall, Remus Knowles, and Stephen Atkins; published in The Journ…

1
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery 47:55

2y ago47:55

47:55

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance. Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research Association Sport-Specific Test Battery By: Nick Draper…

1
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing 25:19

2y ago25:19

25:19

For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum episode we look at a little more of the complete story by examining the paper: Female excellence in rock climbing likely has an evolutionary origin Pub…

1
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized? 47:35

2y ago47:35

47:35

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Associat…

1
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers? 48:30

2y ago48:30

48:30

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches. *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Beall’s List of Potential Predatory Journals and Publishers How to (seriously) read a scientific paper by Elisabeth Pain;…

1
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro? 51:58

2y ago51:58

51:58

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson. He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more — and breaks down how we should be looking at all this data as climbers. *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Scientists rise up a…

1
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1? 51:21

2y ago51:21

51:21

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1. They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorporating into their own coaching and training going forward. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your friends…

1
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance? 35:34

2+ y ago35:34

35:34

In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2…

1
Is Creatine Useful for Climbers? 49:37

2+ y ago49:37

49:37

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition: International Society of Sports Nutrition Position Stand: Safety and Efficacy of Creatine Supplementation in Exercise, Sport, and Medicine authored by Richard B. Kreider, Douglas S. Kalman, Jose Anto…

1
Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger? 40:34

2+ y ago40:34

40:34

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Boulder Climbers authored by Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Vegard Albert Vereide, Elias Olsen, and Vidar Andersen; published in …

1
Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength? 32:09

2+ y ago32:09

32:09

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial authored by Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Dominik Saul, Elizabeth J Atkinson, Arndt F. Shilling, and Volker Schoffl; published in Scientific Reports i…

1
Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing? 47:01

2+ y ago47:01

47:01

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers: Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments authored by Keith Baar, published in Sports Medicine (Springer Nature) in 2017. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s much we can do to help preve…

1
How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders? 35:38

2+ y ago35:38

35:38

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study: Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the Shoulder: an Magnetic Resonance Imaging Study of 31 Climbers authored by Silvan Beeler, MD, Torten Pastor, MD, Benjamin Fritz, MD, Lukas Filli, MD, And…

1
Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers? 37:09

2+ y ago37:09

37:09

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush: Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Performance in Rock Climbing authored by Nick Draper, Simon Brent, Gavin Blackwell, and Chris Hodgson; published in the International Journal of Performa…

1
Does Stretching Result in Power Loss? 45:10

2+ y ago45:10

45:10

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a hotly-debated topic - not just in the climbing world but the greater athletic community: Acute Effects of Static Stretching on Muscle Strength and Power: An Attempt to Clarify Previous Caveats authored by Helmi Chaabene, David Behm, Yassine Negra, and Urs Granacher; published in Frontiers in Physiology in 20…

1
Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping? 39:08

2+ y ago39:08

39:08

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the study that led to climbers everywhere both blaming and training their fingertip pulp: Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure authored by Roger Bourne, Mark Halaki, Benedicte Vanwanseele, and Jillian Clarke; published in the Journal of Applied Biomechanics in …

1
Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol? 49:23

2+ y ago49:23

49:23

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012. The…

1
Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast 5:22

2+ y ago5:22

5:22

Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers? That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you. In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Ha…

1
Episode 2 | Expectations vs Reality 5:04

4y ago5:04

5:04

In this episode we talk about expectations vs reality! We've all experienced a moment in life where our expectations surpassed the reality and in some way that moment ripple effects the moments that will soon follow. Perspective is everything, if you can look into a moment and not see it for what it is but for what it is worth that is the moment yo…

1
Episode One | Value 4:48

5y ago4:48

4:48

A five minute inspirational podcast on Value. Do you value yourself enough to become who you want to be? Goals, dreams and ideas are all a part of creating something. They key is, finding value in yourself enough so you can live the life you imagine!--- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dmarie/message…

1
Spécial France/Belgique! 26:28

6y ago26:28

26:28

Toutes les clés de la demi finale de nos bleu c'est ici!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 06/07 12:37

6y ago12:37

12:37

Les paris Breaking Bet du Vendredi 6 juillet 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et les 2 matchs du jour France/Uruguay et Brésil/Belgique!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 27/06 3:43

6y ago3:43

3:43

Les paris Breaking Bet du Mercredi 27 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde le débriefing des matchs de la veille et les 4 matchs du jour!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 25/06 7:35

6y ago7:35

7:35

Les paris Breaking Bet du Lundi 25 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde le débriefing des matchs de la veille et les 4 matchs du jour!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 22/06 6:34

6y ago6:34

6:34

Les paris Breaking Bet du Vendredi 22 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde le débriefing des matchs de la veille et les 3 matchs du jour!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 21/06 6:01

6y ago6:01

6:01

Les paris Breaking Bet du Jeudi 21 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et les 2 matchs du jour avec le deuxième match des bleus et Argentine/Croatie.Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 20/06 4:33

6y ago4:33

4:33

Les paris Breaking Bet du Mercredi 20 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et les 2 matchs du jour avec Uruguay/Arabie Saoudite et Iran/Espagne.Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 17/06 5:08

6y ago5:08

5:08

Les paris Breaking Bet du Dimanche 17 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et les 2 matchs du jour avec l'entrée en lice des Allemands et Brésiliens!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 16/06 4:41

6y ago4:41

4:41

Les paris Breaking Bet du Vendredi 15 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et les 4 matchs de jour sans oublier l'entrée en lice des bleus!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 15/06 7:15

6y ago7:15

7:15

Les paris Breaking Bet du Vendredi 15 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et les matchs Égypte/Uruguay et Portugal/Espagne!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 14/06 4:00

6y ago4:00

4:00

Les paris Breaking Bet du Jeudi 14 juin 2018 avec au programme la coupe du monde et le match d'ouverture Russie/Arabie Saoudite!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Spécial coupe du monde 2018! 25:20

6y ago25:20

25:20

Les paris Breaking Bet spécial coupe du monde arrivent!Aujourd'hui découvrez les favoris,les buteurs et les sorties de,groupes avec tout les meilleurs conseils et cotes pour parier!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 08/06 4:24

6y ago4:24

4:24

Les paris Breaking Bet du Vendredi 8 juin 2018 avec au programme du tennis et la demie finale Nadal/Del Potro et finale dam Halep/Stephens à Rolland-Garros!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 06/06 4:53

6y ago4:53

4:53

Les paris Breaking Bet du Mercredi6 juin 2018 avec au programme du tennis et les quart de finale à Rolland-Garros!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet

1
Les paris Breaking Bet du 05/06 2:43

6y ago2:43

2:43

Les paris Breaking Bet du Mardi 5 juin 2018 avec au programme du tennis et le match Thiem/Zverev à Rolland-Garros!Bonne écoute!Kirjoittanut Breaking Bet