Parhaat TrainingBeta Podcastit (2024)

1
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups 1:24:32

1+ y ago1:24:32

1:24:32

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re actually an athlete in that sport, you can turn those viewings into active learning sessions by askin…

1
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance 1:25:16

1+ y ago1:25:16

1:25:16

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the link below: Listen to my first interview with Thomas In that episode, we started talking about how…

1
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster 1:12:23

1+ y ago1:12:23

1:12:23

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way. He’s found that he’s…

1
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt 1:39:06

1+ y ago1:39:06

1:39:06

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power. Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to sim…

1
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing 1:18:59

1+ y ago1:18:59

1:18:59

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing drills, strength training tactics, and mindset shifts to help you feel less intimidated and more confident on…

1
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3 1:25:59

1+ y ago1:25:59

1:25:59

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer." Turns out this was his second--not first--14c, which I found out…

1
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins 1:10:42

1+ y ago1:10:42

1:10:42

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to having twins and balancing her life with her two children as a new part of it. The book is a compilation of letters she wrote to her kids through the f…

1
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger 1:31:15

1+ y ago1:31:15

1:31:15

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom calls starting March 21st all about how to use efficient, quick sessions in the gym to reliably make you feel stronger and have more endurance. The cost…

1
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus 1:36:05

1+ y ago1:36:05

1:36:05

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Through the training and tactics they employed, she was able to…

1
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training 58:40

1+ y ago58:40

58:40

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented th…

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TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers 1:39:57

2y ago1:39:57

1:39:57

This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half! DBT is a set of psychological tools developed by Marsha Linehan to help people truly process and deal …

1
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer 1:23:33

2y ago1:23:33

1:23:33

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for bouldering in their own lives. When we started talking, I was assuming they were going to tell me all the ways…

1
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger 1:11:08

2y ago1:11:08

1:11:08

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she…

1
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days 1:17:19

2y ago1:17:19

1:17:19

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in …

1
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger 1:19:07

2y ago1:19:07

1:19:07

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions. There are a lot of little tips and tric…

1
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing 1:18:58

2y ago1:18:58

1:18:58

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up to work with me in 2018. After working together on his nutrition and him working on his climbing tra…

1
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers 29:52

2y ago29:52

29:52

In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so I wanted to lay out in plain terms what I see happen–both good and bad–when climbers try them. This recording is taken from my Nourish program, which…

1
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance 1:15:42

2y ago1:15:42

1:15:42

Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who’s been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Climbing, all about the topic, and I wanted to have him on the show to talk about the things he most commonly helps people with in regards to climbing ps…

1
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing 1:22:59

2y ago1:22:59

1:22:59

You may have heard me say that I’ve been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental “blocks.” Well, it’s been so valuable working with her that I wanted to have her on the show to talk about some of the same things we’ve talked about in our sessions together. Hazel is a 33-year-old profession…

1
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely) 1:28:36

2y ago1:28:36

1:28:36

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk about their practices as climbing coaches and I discuss my practice as a nutrition professional. Some things we all have in common are that we’re less per…

1
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers 1:01:01

2y ago1:01:01

1:01:01

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he elaborates on during client calls. We’re not going to get into the nitty gritty of sets and reps or specific…

1
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance 28:37

2y ago28:37

28:37

In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it’s tempting to just not eat all day at the crag so you can feel “light” and climb hard, but the truth is that we need food at regular intervals every day, especially when we’re trying to…

1
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training 55:24

2y ago55:24

55:24

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are limitations to how fingerboard training translates to actual rock climbing. He talks about the physiology of hangboarding…

1
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing 1:17:46

2y ago1:17:46

1:17:46

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of “endurance” in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic system (long-form endurance), and the anaerobic alactic system (power) and the differences between them. Then Matt goes through some different training met…

1
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti 1:32:22

2+ y ago1:32:22

1:32:22

This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we’re going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gotten so popular in the past couple decades, there are more and more dogs at crags and boulders. Sometimes this is an amazing thing and sometimes dogs ca…

1
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition 43:13

2+ y ago43:13

43:13

New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this article), you can check it out in the link below…

1
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes 1:09:15

2+ y ago1:09:15

1:09:15

Free Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we’re doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbers make and how to avoid them. When: Tuesday, July 26th at 6-7:30pm Mountain Time Where: Zoom call Hosts: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn What: 60-minute …

1
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing 1:25:17

2+ y ago1:25:17

1:25:17

Allison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She’s originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success competing as a Canadian, winning the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020 and winning Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019. In August 2019, Allison…

1
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects 1:20:17

2+ y ago1:20:17

1:20:17

Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equ…

1
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger 49:09

2+ y ago49:09

49:09

Erin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route Climbing Training Program and has had some amazing success on it, so I wanted her to share her story with you all. Through using the program (and adapting it intelligently to her own needs), she gained work ca…

1
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan 1:05:39

2+ y ago1:05:39

1:05:39

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a resta…

1
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb 1:19:04

2+ y ago1:19:04

1:19:04

Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood in Switzerland, Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Direct North (V14) in Bishop, and so many more. She’s a Sta…

1
TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries 58:57

2+ y ago58:57

58:57

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and is sharing this information with us so that youth coaches and parents are better equipped to understand these injuries and av…

1
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols 1:37:45

2+ y ago1:37:45

1:37:45

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injuries in climbers and how that’s affected his protocols for healing them. We did another interview about fingers a long time ago in Episode 116, but this …

1
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a 1:22:35

2+ y ago1:22:35

1:22:35

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger’s 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training program built just for you. You’ll be getting to know a small group of no more than 12 people, talking with them every week. You’ll get a lot of one-on-o…

1
TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus 58:01

2+ y ago58:01

58:01

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you can hardly get off the ground on your warm-ups. Whether you have a training program written by another co…

1
TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan 1:26:33

2+ y ago1:26:33

1:26:33

TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50’s who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Centers in Virginia. She began climbing when she was 30 years old and soon realized it was what she wanted to spend her life doing and teaching, so she qui…

1
TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection 1:29:58

2+ y ago1:29:58

1:29:58

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old. I wanted to talk with Keenan because–let’s be honest–I love his moustachio… and because I wanted to understand what sets him apart from other climbe…

1
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger 1:27:46

2+ y ago1:27:46

1:27:46

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients’ and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning. This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much…

1
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger 1:21:17

2+ y ago1:21:17

1:21:17

Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX Go…

1
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58 57:57

2+ y ago57:57

57:57

Where to start about Bobbi Bensman?? Bobbi has been climbing since 1980 and was basically the Alex Puccio of her time. She was a professional climber for 21 years until she transitioned to a full-time job as a sales rep for outdoor companies and became a mother to two daughters. In her time as a pro climber, she helped forge the way for strong fema…

1
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12 1:04:55

2+ y ago1:04:55

1:04:55

Elyn Lytton is a 68-year-old climber from Colorado who started climbing in her early 50’s and is still regularly crushing 5.12’s (indoors and on toprope). She is also my mother-in-law and I’m constantly impressed by her. She’s a really good example of a person who does things in the name of sustainability, meaning, she LOVES climbing and will do wh…

1
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on Navigating Training Options if You're in a Plateau 1:03:40

3y ago1:03:40

1:03:40

TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on How to Navigate Training Options if You’re in a Plateau 25% Off Bouldering Program Our Bouldering Training Program is on sale for 25% off the normal price (regularly $27/month and now $20/month) with coupon code “bouldering.” The program consists of 3 levels, depending on your training experience, and it will help you get …

1
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery 28:49

3y ago28:49

28:49

In this episode, I talk all about how to time your meals and snacks to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. You might think that when you eat food isn’t really that important – or maybe you haven’t given it much thought. But the truth is that it can be almost as important as what …

1
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery 1:19:38

3y ago1:19:38

1:19:38

TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery Lucie Hanes is a 27-year-old climbing coach out of Eagle, Colorado, who is pursuing her Master’s of Science in Applied Sports Psychology. I met Lucie in the Wicked Cave in Rifle last summer, and the next time I heard from her was when she reached out via email in response to …

1
TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays 51:49

3y ago51:49

51:49

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to…

1
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Training and Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development 1:06:26

3y ago1:06:26

1:06:26

Matt Samet is the editor of Climbing Magazine, the author of several books, a prolific route developer, and a very strong and dedicated climber. He’s also a friend of mine and someone I respect a lot, so I’ve been wanting to interview him for a while. He’s a father of 3, works full-time, and just sent a 5.14 project a couple days before his 50th bi…

1
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol 1:03:30

3y ago1:03:30

1:03:30

Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – m…

1
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes 1:06:49

3y ago1:06:49

1:06:49

Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for climbing fitness. In our practices as a coach (Matt) and a nutritionist (me), we see a lot of people who run in the name of climbing training. But there are some common mistakes we see people making in their tr…

1
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why 31:06

3y ago31:06

31:06

TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kinds, Timing, and Why In this episode, I talk all about carbohydrates and how to use them properly in your diet to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. Carbs are a tricky topic because we’ve been taught to fear and hate them, even th…

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