Parhaat Phil Kalas Nick Horween Podcastit (2024)

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EP56: Q&A NEW Horween Leather Aspen, Waterproof CXL, Farm Boots 50:26

21d ago50:26

50:26

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions from YouTube. Leave your questions for us in the comments. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's fin…

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EP55: Skip Horween Leather Industry & Trade Shows 52:29

27d ago52:29

52:29

All Horween takeover. Nick and Skip Horween discuss the leather industry and trade shows. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horw…

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EP54: Why is shell cordovan so expensive!? 57:55

1M ago57:55

57:55

Nick Horween explains why shell cordovan (and leather in general) is expensive. Cost breakdown includes hides, material, labor, regulations and more. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://as…

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EP53: Horween SHUTDOWN & Maintaining a 100+ Year-Old Leather Tannery 44:15

2M ago44:15

44:15

Every year Horween performs scheduled maintenance on many pieces of equipment that are over 100 years old. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leathe…

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EP52: Nick's Handmade Boots & Horween Leather Co. Discuss Shell Cordovan 1:29:57

2M ago1:29:57

1:29:57

Shuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more. https://nicksboots.com/ https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered.…

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EP51: ICON 4x4 Jonathan Ward 1:50:31

3M ago1:50:31

1:50:31

Jonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philosophy when making things, and teaches us the importance of being passionate about what you do. ICON 4x4 https://www.icon4x4.com/ TLC 4x4 https://www.tlc4x4.com/ J Ward Collection https://www.instagram…

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EP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather Finishing 1:29:16

3M ago1:29:16

1:29:16

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather.…

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EP49: Boot-Wearing Guide to Horween Leather 1:43:17

3M ago1:43:17

1:43:17

Stitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and characteristics in many Horween leathers including shell cordovan, Horsebutt veg, CXL, Predator and more. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wa…

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EP48: Leather Tanning 101 1:12:37

4M ago1:12:37

1:12:37

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleathe…

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EP47: Dean Delray, Leather Jackets, Stand-Up Comedy 1:26:49

4M ago1:26:49

1:26:49

Dean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector. https://www.deandelray.com/ https://www.instagram.com/deandelray/?hl=en https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https:…

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EP46: Q&A Chromepak vs. CXL, Horween Pinnacle, Coffee Tanning, Why Pit Tan? 53:41

4M ago53:41

53:41

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. http…

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EP45: Shell Cordovan, Dublin, Essex, Pit Tanning, Tree Barks 1:06:40

4M ago1:06:40

1:06:40

Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrain…

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EP44: NBA Basketball Leather - Leather vs. Plastic 46:04

5M ago46:04

46:04

Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashlan…

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EP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf Leather 58:36

5M ago58:36

58:36

First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch it on YouTube https://youtu.be/OM7_YR03sCo Get a wall…

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EP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established Brands 1:13:26

6M ago1:13:26

1:13:26

Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess. 0:00 Topics …

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EP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather Perspective 1:21:31

7M ago1:21:31

1:21:31

Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. 0:00 What’s a podcast? 0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome 45:25 Boot Camp 57:35 Leather Perspective https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.…

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EP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s Leatherworks 1:09:31

7M ago1:09:31

1:09:31

Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. 0:00 American Original 1:08 Is CXL Overrated? 19:12 Is Alden Overpriced? 30:03 WWII Boots 38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago 52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Ro…

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EP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper Clubs 1:23:18

7M ago1:23:18

1:23:18

Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce. https://www.turnkeymadison.com/ ht…

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Ep38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, Rancourt 1:16:24

7M ago1:16:24

1:16:24

Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horwe…

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EP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot Collecting 1:58:16

8M ago1:58:16

1:58:16

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more. 0:00 Best Shell C…

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EP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️ 1:26:18

8M ago1:26:18

1:26:18

Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. 0:00 What is Aniline Leather 8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing 14:0…

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EP35: Suede, Nubuck, Rough Out Waxed Flesh and Genuine Leather: Everything You Want to Know 1:21:56

8M ago1:21:56

1:21:56

Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here. 0:00 Genuine Leathers 0:21 What is suede? 9:10 What is rough out and waxe…

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EP34: LIVE Q&A Shinki Shell Cordovan, Seidel Double Shot, Calf, Predator, Horsebutt 1:05:26

10M ago1:05:26

1:05:26

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 0:00 Favorite Episodes 4:03 Arabica Lux Leather 6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss 9:11 Tanner’s Blend on Shell Cordovan 10:27 Favorite and Least Favorite Leathers 14:28 Horween’s Crunch Leather 16:33 VIberg Double Butt Shell Cordovan Boot 22:47 Does Horween Tan Calf? 27:11 What Scent Does the Tanner…

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EP33: Ultimate Leather Care Guide. Horween Shell Cordovan Polishing Secrets 1:42:28

10M ago1:42:28

1:42:28

Going deep on leather care. 0:00 1990’s Miami Painting 1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide 4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine 7:58 Leather is Designed to Last 12:31 Shoe Trees 13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine 15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather 17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap 20:59 Use Less Polish 23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax …

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EP32: Alden Indy Boot, What is Quality, Meat Industry, Rose Anvil Weston Kay Pt.2 1:03:07

12M ago1:03:07

1:03:07

Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half. 0:00 Alden Indy Boot 11:30 Making Mistakes 16:15 Responsibility of Being Critical of Brands 19:37 Quality Testing Methods 22:03 Does Leather Thickness Matter? 31:17 Hunting 32:55 What happens to leather if people stop eating meat 39:4…

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EP31: Rose Anvil Cut in Half. Form vs. Function. Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots. Alden Controversy. Part 1 of 2. 46:48

1y ago46:48

46:48

Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh …

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EP30 New Leathers at Horween, Stitchdown Boot Camp 59:42

1y ago59:42

59:42

Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween…

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EP29: Thunderdome, Bo Jackson, What Makes Leather Smell?, Hot Stuffing Explained 50:19

1y ago50:19

50:19

Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcas…

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EP28: Rare Shell Cordovan 55:20

1y ago55:20

55:20

Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on …

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EP27: FEW Spirits, Craft Spirit Appreciation 101, Barrel Aging, Bourbon 1:35:30

1+ y ago1:35:30

1:35:30

Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the lates…

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EP26: Nomad Goods Brian Hahn: Creating Apple Tech Accessories to Work from Anywhere 1:40:11

1+ y ago1:40:11

1:40:11

Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle. 0:00 Work from anywhere 4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques 7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials 13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather 17:19 The Best Material 21:10 Designing for Different Markets 23:12 Selling on Amazon 26:13 Leather …

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EP25: Comparing Shell Cordovan, Horsehide, Cow, Steer, Deer, Bison 52:45

1+ y ago52:45

52:45

What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is th…

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EP24: The History of Buckleguy: How Hardware is Made, Sourcing Hardware and Leather 1:13:26

1+ y ago1:13:26

1:13:26

The Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and Leather In this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh shares his insights on the history of leather, buckles, and hardware, the story of how Buckleguy got started, and the challenges of sourcing hardware and leather. He also discusses upcoming Buckleguy pr…

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EP23: Portland Leather Goods Curtis Matsko 1:19:09

1+ y ago1:19:09

1:19:09

Curtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina. https://www.portlandleathergoods.com/ https://patina.com/ 0:00 Coming to America 2:22 Starting Portland Leather 7:25 Leather 12:16 Forecasting 16:19 Hide Market, Material Delays 21:24 Leather for Women 35:00 Best Leather? 43:23 Mystery Box 45:36 Scale 54:08 Growing in…

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EP22: AI Asks About Leather, Patina Thunderdome Recap, Bog Bodies 40:07

1+ y ago40:07

40:07

Back in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intriguing worlds of patina and preservation, from the leather boots that develop a rich character in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome contest, to the ancient human remains that are frozen in time in peat …

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EP21: Maverick Leather, Horween Seconds, USA Tanneries, New Car Smell, Salz Tannery 1:26:32

1+ y ago1:26:32

1:26:32

Matt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horween seconds and leather from many tanneries. 0:00 Eye Surgery 1:16 Horween Seconds, Reselling Leather 9:58 USA Leather Tanneries 16:58 What leathers don’t exist anymore 24:26 Environmental Regulations 3…

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EP20: Oak Street Bootmakers, Calf Shortage, Made in USA, Hand Lasting, Leather Board, Ralph Lauren 1:29:44

1+ y ago1:29:44

1:29:44

George Vlagos started Oak Street Bootmakers in 2010. The brand makes boots and shoes in the USA and has a wide offering of styles, leathers, and colors. George talks about their mission to make shoes in the USA, explains hand lasting, and tells us how Ralph Lauren is an inspiration. 0:00 Calfskin Shortage 7:45 Why Made in USA? 18:31 Hand Lasted Boo…

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EP19: Werner Erkelens, Bass Player for Monuments, Aviations, International Touring Musician 55:53

1+ y ago55:53

55:53

Werner is the bassist for Monuments and Aviations. He shares his passion for music and unveils some truths about the touring life of a musician. 0:00 Can you play bleed? 1:13 Posh touring life in France 4:28 Is there money in music? 9:54 Why bass? 17:04 Writing Process 25:58 International Touring 33:00 What do your parents think? 35:12 What do you …

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EP18: Shell Cordovan Scratches and Repair, NEW Leather, Teacore, Wooly CXL 1:07:45

1+ y ago1:07:45

1:07:45

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing questions. Have a question? Email fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com 0:00 Chat GPT 2:14 Cordovan & Dublin Scratching and Repair 5:21 New Cypress Leather 10:50 Leather We Don’t Like 15:00 Horween’s Austin Leather 13:13 Most Common Belt Size 18:44 Steerhide vs. Horsehide 24:37 Size of Viberg and Ashland a…

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E17: Black Bear Brand, Kevin Costner Jacket, Vintage Cars, Motorcycles, Travel, Boro, Wesco 1:29:06

1+ y ago1:29:06

1:29:06

Josh Sirlin lives in chaos and it is the chaos that has created the products for Black Bear Brand. He tells the story of how he has awoken the bear and his adventure chasing smiles. https://blackbearbrand.com/ https://www.instagram.com/blackbearbrand/ 0:00 Next to the tannery everyday 4:35 Kevin Costner Jacket on Yellowstone 12:43 Black Bear Origin…

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E16: Dashing Chicago, Alden, Edward Green, Leather Care, Proper Fit 1:44:40

1+ y ago1:44:40

1:44:40

Sean Moran from Dashing Chicago. Sean used to work for Haberdash and Leffot in Chicago. He has carried his relationships forward with Alden and Edward Green and sells their footwear, and other brands, in his downtown Chicago store. https://dashingchicago.com/ https://www.instagram.com/dashingchicago 0:00 Sharp Dressed Man 2:42 Sean Dashing Chicago …

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E15: We need to talk about Chromexcel, Boots, Mechanical Seals, Historical Documents, WWII 1:08:19

1+ y ago1:08:19

1:08:19

Nick Horween resurrects some 100+ year old documents uncovering some of Chromexcel’s history. We discuss the origins of Chromexcel, some of the original uses, and strengths/weaknesses of this special tannage. 0:00 We’re Back 1:13 Chromexcel Leather 2:50 Original Uses Boots and Seals 9:04 What is Chromexcel 19:07 CXL on Boots and Shoes and Belts 21:…

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E14: Grant Stone Part 2 Wyatt & Josh’s Shoe Journey, Women’s Footwear, New Styles/Colors, Quality Specs 1:10:57

2y ago1:10:57

1:10:57

Part two of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to …

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E13: Grant Stone, Leather Break, Alden, Heel Slip, Lasts 1:03:15

2y ago1:03:15

1:03:15

Part one of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Part two goes up on December 26th 2022. https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube…

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E12: The Stitchdown Shoecast - Ben and Ticho 1:39:05

2y ago1:39:05

1:39:05

The crossover episode you've been waiting for. SHOECAST with Ben and Ticho from Stitchdown Shoecast. https://www.stitchdown.com/ https://www.stitchdown.com/stitchdown-shoecast/all-podcast-episodes/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Le…

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E11: Translucent Leather, Shrunken Horsebutt, JR Soles, Russian Reindeer Boxboard 1:16:21

2y ago1:16:21

1:16:21

Answering all of your important questions. A livestream replay with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to ful…

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E10: 3sixteen - Raw Denim, Self Edge, 20th Anniversary Collabs 52:13

2y ago52:13

52:13

Andrew Chen and Johan Lam from 3sixteen tell us about their 20 year history. Starting with t-shirts and inspired by vintage clothing, they are now known for raw denim jeans. https://www.3sixteen.com/ https://www.instagram.com/andrew3sixteen https://www.instagram.com/johan3sixteen Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ash…

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E9: Jason Gregory MAKR Studio, Leather Goods, Made in USA, Minimalism 1:25:48

2y ago1:25:48

1:25:48

Jason Gregory simply loves making stuff. From leather goods, canvas bags, furniture and even architecture -- Jason's entire being is devoted to creation. https://makr.com/ https://www.instagram.com/makr_ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horw…

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E8: Patina, Veg Tan, Olive Tan, Chrome Tan, Wax Flesh, Patina Thunderdome 56:24

2y ago56:24

56:24

What is patina? Nick Horween explains what patina is, how to prevent it, and what we love about it. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to …

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E7: Anthony Spina SYSTEM, Old Style, White Claw, Inclusive Drinking, Dive Bars, Tannery Row 59:59

2y ago59:59

59:59

Today's guest is the founder of SYSTEM Seltzer, Anthony Spina. Anthony describes drinking habits in the US, Chicago dive bars, the export of US culture, social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin and more. 1:55 US Drinking Habits 5:56 First Cell phones 11:05 Inclusive Drinking 15:33 Chicago dive bars 23:37 Export of US Culture 26:15 social m…

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