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What it’s like surfing giant waves with XXL Big Wave Paddle Award Winner Derek Dunfee

1:02:46
 
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Manage episode 371504943 series 3468589
Sisällön tarjoaa Basis Surf. Basis Surf tai sen podcast-alustan kumppani lataa ja toimittaa kaiken podcast-sisällön, mukaan lukien jaksot, grafiikat ja podcast-kuvaukset. Jos uskot jonkun käyttävän tekijänoikeudella suojattua teostasi ilman lupaasi, voit seurata tässä https://fi.player.fm/legal kuvattua prosessia.

@derekdunfee is a XXL big wave paddle award winner, photographer whose work has graced the cover of The Surfer's Journal, and published a riveting book about his big wave surfing journey called Waking Up in the Sea.
In this interview we go deep into everything from him cutting his teeth at Cloudbreak and Hawaii, his initial forays into surfing proper big waves at Mavericks including the award winning wave that changed his life forever, to his near drowning at Cortez Bank and how that inspired a pivot to photography, his recent book, and his mission to raise awareness around concussions.

Along the way we cover his advice to beginner surfers, how to deal with fear, holding your breath in bigger waves, the importance of having a mentor, and many other nuggets of wisdom to help take your surfing to the next level whether you're surfing 1 ft waves or 60 ft waves.
  continue reading

50 jaksoa

Artwork
iconJaa
 
Manage episode 371504943 series 3468589
Sisällön tarjoaa Basis Surf. Basis Surf tai sen podcast-alustan kumppani lataa ja toimittaa kaiken podcast-sisällön, mukaan lukien jaksot, grafiikat ja podcast-kuvaukset. Jos uskot jonkun käyttävän tekijänoikeudella suojattua teostasi ilman lupaasi, voit seurata tässä https://fi.player.fm/legal kuvattua prosessia.

@derekdunfee is a XXL big wave paddle award winner, photographer whose work has graced the cover of The Surfer's Journal, and published a riveting book about his big wave surfing journey called Waking Up in the Sea.
In this interview we go deep into everything from him cutting his teeth at Cloudbreak and Hawaii, his initial forays into surfing proper big waves at Mavericks including the award winning wave that changed his life forever, to his near drowning at Cortez Bank and how that inspired a pivot to photography, his recent book, and his mission to raise awareness around concussions.

Along the way we cover his advice to beginner surfers, how to deal with fear, holding your breath in bigger waves, the importance of having a mentor, and many other nuggets of wisdom to help take your surfing to the next level whether you're surfing 1 ft waves or 60 ft waves.
  continue reading

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