Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar

The Struggle Climbing Show

Climbing Coaches Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar joins to discuss:

• Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)
• The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment
• Accessing thousands of points of climber data
• Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")
• The shocking results of the finger strength study
• What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength
• Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers
• Goals for more studies and exploring other variables

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!